Can you Imagine that? Toby the therapy dog, is the only dog in Prescott with his own library card. Toby is a four-year-old black and white Border collie and a Certified therapy dog from Therapy Dogs International. With all the extensive training he has been through, he is very polite, well-behaved, and friendly to the public.
“Toby loves books,” says his handler, Library Director Toni Kaus, who brings him in the first Friday of every month to the library to listen to his favorite stories being read to him by his favorite people…children. He sits quietly, his ears
flicking as the child’s voice rises and falls with the inflection of the words, and wags his tail slowly in response to being petted.
Toby is part of a reading program for children ages 5-10 at the Prescott Public Library. “Paws to Read” is held in the James Room in the Children’s Section of the library, on the first Friday of every month. Children can sign up to read to Toby at the Youth Services Desk with Librarian Martha Baden, for 10-15 minutes of one-on-one reading time with Toby. Sometimes, one of Toby’s friends, Hunter or Storm, also Therapy Dogs, will join him and listen to readers with him. After they read, kids get a certificate about their visit.
Most dogs can’t get a library card, but Toby has a photo identification, and since he is part of the “Paws to Read” program, he got his own card “to remind kids what a great resource a library card can be.” He also wears his own special neckerchief.
Naturally, children like to read stories to Toby about cats. One of Toby’s favorite stories though is about a pigeon who wants to get a puppy. He also enjoys stories read by little boys who wipe their hands on their pants, leaving interesting smells. Books about a mouse and a shark are also among Toby’s favorites.
The kids who read to Toby are learning to love reading. With Toby, they have a non-critical listener who enjoys their company. He gets lots of love and petting, and at the end of each session, Toni gives him a little treat. Often Toby gets up from his comfy cushion to greet children he recognizes from previous visits. Being a library reading assistance dog is a great job! For more information about “Paws to Read,” contact the Youth Services desk at 777-1537.
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Are Sugars, Starches and Grains "Evil" in Horse Diets? By Katie Young, Ph.D., Consulting Equine Nutritionist, Purina Mills, LLC
Have you ever watched a pendulum swing? It swings way to the right, and then goes back to center. Then it swings way to the left, then returns to center again. In human nutrition, the sugar and starch pendulum appears to be returning to center. In equine nutrition, however, that sugar and starch pendulum seems to be hung up way off to the side.
Before we talk about the "evil" nature of sugars and starches (and therefore grains since they usually provide the majority of starches in a horse’s diet), we need to talk about carbohydrates. Sugars and starches are carbohydrates, but fibers are also carbohydrates. Fiber carbohydrates (structural carbohydrates) are important in a horse’s diet, and are primarily provided by the forages (grass or hay) that the horse eats. When people talk about feeding a "low carb" or "no carb" diet to horses, that implies that we need to reduce or eliminate the hay or grass in
the horse’s diet as well as the concentrate (or grain-based) feeds. That is usually not what we want to do, because fiber is essential to maintain the health of the horse’s digestive tract. The sugars and starches are nonstructural carbohydrates or NSC (sometimes referred to as soluble carbohydrates). In some situations it may be beneficial to reduce the NSC in a horse’s diet.
Are nonstructural carbohydrates "evil"? In the horse’s small intestine, most nonstructural carbs are broken down into glucose, a simple sugar. The glucose is then absorbed into the blood stream, and is carried to various tissues where it is used as fuel, or stored as glycogen (in the muscle or liver, where it later used as fuel) or as fat. Glucose is very important for the horse to function properly, as it is the only fuel that can be used by the brain, it is used to a large extent by the hooves, and it is the only substance that can be used for making glycogen. Studies have shown that horses that use up all their glycogen and are not provided glucose to replenish the glycogen stores show greatly reduced performance capabilities. So glucose is vital to the health and well-being of the horse. Again, glucose comes primarily from NSC.
So, again, are nonstructural carbohydrates "evil"? We know that too much NSC (particularly starch) in a horse’s meal can cause problems. We want the NSC to be digested in the small intestine, but if we feed a large meal that contains so much starch that it overflows from the small intestine into the large intestine, it may cause digestive disturbances such as colic or laminitis. Studies have shown that feeding no more than about 0.5% of a horse’s body weight of grain in one meal will reduce the risk of grain overload into the horse’s hindgut, therefore reducing the risk of colic or laminitis.
For laminitic horses (horses that have been previously been diagnosed with laminitis) feeding less NSC may be helpful in reducing the chance of a recurrence. Horses with chronic laminitis may be more susceptible and more sensitive to NSC in the diet.
There are some horses that suffer from disorders such as Cushing’s Syndrome. This disorder may cause a problem in the regulation and use of glucose in the body. The hormone insulin helps regulate glucose, by causing it to be removed from the blood into the tissues where it is used or stored. In horses that suffer from Cushing’s Syndrome, the insulin may not function properly to regulate the glucose, and we see high levels of glucose in the blood. We call these horses "insulin resistant". In these situations, it may be beneficial to feed less NSC so that there will be less
glucose provided by the diet.
There are some horses that suffer from disorders such as Cushing’s Syndrome. This disorder may cause a problem in the regulation and use of glucose in the body. The hormone insulin helps regulate glucose, by causing it to be removed from the blood into the tissues where it is used or stored. In horses that suffer from Cushing’s Syndrome, the insulin may not function properly to regulate the glucose, and we see high levels of glucose in the blood. We call these horses "insulin resistant". In these situations, it may be beneficial to feed less NSC so that there will be less
glucose provided by the diet.
Another situation in which low NSC diets are recommended is for horses diagnosed with "Equine Metabolic Syndrome". These horses are usually obese, and blood tests show them to be apparently "insulin resistant". However, in many cases if the horses are put on low calorie diets and lose weight, their glucose and insulin values return to normal. Once again, are nonstructural carbohydrates "evil"? In my opinion, the answer is a firm "NO". There are some situations in which some horses may benefit from lower levels of NSC in their diets. However, we need much more research to determine where the level of NSC needs to be, because the horse still needs glucose for brain, muscle and hoof function. We don’t know at this point where the lower limit of NSC in the diet is to ensure adequate glucose to supply the body’s needs. We also do not know where the upper limit is to reduce the potential for NSC in the diet to cause problems for insulin resistant horses. As an equine nutritionist, I try to ensure that the total diet includes all the essential nutrients to meet the horse’s nutritional needs without exacerbating any medical
conditions. For most typical horses, the amount of NSC in a standard diet of grass or hay and concentrate feed will cause no problems. In situations where the NSC may be an issue, there are factors to consider other than just how much grain is in the horse’s diet.
Horse owners almost always look at the grain portion of their horse’s diet to reduce the NSC. However, just because a feed contains grains, it does not mean that the feed is high in NSC. Conversely, just because a feed does not contain whole grains does not mean that it is low in NSC. Different ingredients in a feed contain different amounts of nonstructural carbohydrates, and it is the total mixture of ingredients that determines the NSC content of that feed. Purina Mills has several feeds available that are low in NSC. And more importantly, those feeds are formulated to contain all the nutrients necessary to meet the horse’s nutritional needs.
Further, we need to keep in mind that fresh grasses and some hays can contain fairly substantial amounts of NSC. When dealing with a horse that is suffering from a disorder that may be aggravated by high levels of NSC, it is vital to look at the forage portion of the ration as well as the concentrate to determine the best total diet for that horse.
Finally, it is essential to keep in mind that each horse is an individual with individual needs. When we start looking at individuals with special needs such as those with Cushing’s Syndrome, or obese horses, or laminitic horses, there is no cookie cutter approach to meeting the horse’s nutritional needs as well as the medical needs.
Further, we need to keep in mind that fresh grasses and some hays can contain fairly substantial amounts of NSC. When dealing with a horse that is suffering from a disorder that may be aggravated by high levels of NSC, it is vital to look at the forage portion of the ration as well as the concentrate to determine the best total diet for that horse.
Finally, it is essential to keep in mind that each horse is an individual with individual needs. When we start looking at individuals with special needs such as those with Cushing’s Syndrome, or obese horses, or laminitic horses, there is no cookie cutter approach to meeting the horse’s nutritional needs as well as the medical needs.
At Olsen's Grain, we have a large variety of feeds available to meet the needs of horses in many different situations. Our goal is to provide the best nutrition for your horse by supplying the best feeds necessary to support your horse’s health, performance, and longevity.
Before we talk about the "evil" nature of sugars and starches (and therefore grains since they usually provide the majority of starches in a horse’s diet), we need to talk about carbohydrates. Sugars and starches are carbohydrates, but fibers are also carbohydrates. Fiber carbohydrates (structural carbohydrates) are important in a horse’s diet, and are primarily provided by the forages (grass or hay) that the horse eats. When people talk about feeding a "low carb" or "no carb" diet to horses, that implies that we need to reduce or eliminate the hay or grass in
the horse’s diet as well as the concentrate (or grain-based) feeds. That is usually not what we want to do, because fiber is essential to maintain the health of the horse’s digestive tract. The sugars and starches are nonstructural carbohydrates or NSC (sometimes referred to as soluble carbohydrates). In some situations it may be beneficial to reduce the NSC in a horse’s diet.
Are nonstructural carbohydrates "evil"? In the horse’s small intestine, most nonstructural carbs are broken down into glucose, a simple sugar. The glucose is then absorbed into the blood stream, and is carried to various tissues where it is used as fuel, or stored as glycogen (in the muscle or liver, where it later used as fuel) or as fat. Glucose is very important for the horse to function properly, as it is the only fuel that can be used by the brain, it is used to a large extent by the hooves, and it is the only substance that can be used for making glycogen. Studies have shown that horses that use up all their glycogen and are not provided glucose to replenish the glycogen stores show greatly reduced performance capabilities. So glucose is vital to the health and well-being of the horse. Again, glucose comes primarily from NSC.
So, again, are nonstructural carbohydrates "evil"? We know that too much NSC (particularly starch) in a horse’s meal can cause problems. We want the NSC to be digested in the small intestine, but if we feed a large meal that contains so much starch that it overflows from the small intestine into the large intestine, it may cause digestive disturbances such as colic or laminitis. Studies have shown that feeding no more than about 0.5% of a horse’s body weight of grain in one meal will reduce the risk of grain overload into the horse’s hindgut, therefore reducing the risk of colic or laminitis.
For laminitic horses (horses that have been previously been diagnosed with laminitis) feeding less NSC may be helpful in reducing the chance of a recurrence. Horses with chronic laminitis may be more susceptible and more sensitive to NSC in the diet.
There are some horses that suffer from disorders such as Cushing’s Syndrome. This disorder may cause a problem in the regulation and use of glucose in the body. The hormone insulin helps regulate glucose, by causing it to be removed from the blood into the tissues where it is used or stored. In horses that suffer from Cushing’s Syndrome, the insulin may not function properly to regulate the glucose, and we see high levels of glucose in the blood. We call these horses "insulin resistant". In these situations, it may be beneficial to feed less NSC so that there will be less
glucose provided by the diet.
There are some horses that suffer from disorders such as Cushing’s Syndrome. This disorder may cause a problem in the regulation and use of glucose in the body. The hormone insulin helps regulate glucose, by causing it to be removed from the blood into the tissues where it is used or stored. In horses that suffer from Cushing’s Syndrome, the insulin may not function properly to regulate the glucose, and we see high levels of glucose in the blood. We call these horses "insulin resistant". In these situations, it may be beneficial to feed less NSC so that there will be less
glucose provided by the diet.
Another situation in which low NSC diets are recommended is for horses diagnosed with "Equine Metabolic Syndrome". These horses are usually obese, and blood tests show them to be apparently "insulin resistant". However, in many cases if the horses are put on low calorie diets and lose weight, their glucose and insulin values return to normal. Once again, are nonstructural carbohydrates "evil"? In my opinion, the answer is a firm "NO". There are some situations in which some horses may benefit from lower levels of NSC in their diets. However, we need much more research to determine where the level of NSC needs to be, because the horse still needs glucose for brain, muscle and hoof function. We don’t know at this point where the lower limit of NSC in the diet is to ensure adequate glucose to supply the body’s needs. We also do not know where the upper limit is to reduce the potential for NSC in the diet to cause problems for insulin resistant horses. As an equine nutritionist, I try to ensure that the total diet includes all the essential nutrients to meet the horse’s nutritional needs without exacerbating any medical
conditions. For most typical horses, the amount of NSC in a standard diet of grass or hay and concentrate feed will cause no problems. In situations where the NSC may be an issue, there are factors to consider other than just how much grain is in the horse’s diet.
Horse owners almost always look at the grain portion of their horse’s diet to reduce the NSC. However, just because a feed contains grains, it does not mean that the feed is high in NSC. Conversely, just because a feed does not contain whole grains does not mean that it is low in NSC. Different ingredients in a feed contain different amounts of nonstructural carbohydrates, and it is the total mixture of ingredients that determines the NSC content of that feed. Purina Mills has several feeds available that are low in NSC. And more importantly, those feeds are formulated to contain all the nutrients necessary to meet the horse’s nutritional needs.
Further, we need to keep in mind that fresh grasses and some hays can contain fairly substantial amounts of NSC. When dealing with a horse that is suffering from a disorder that may be aggravated by high levels of NSC, it is vital to look at the forage portion of the ration as well as the concentrate to determine the best total diet for that horse.
Finally, it is essential to keep in mind that each horse is an individual with individual needs. When we start looking at individuals with special needs such as those with Cushing’s Syndrome, or obese horses, or laminitic horses, there is no cookie cutter approach to meeting the horse’s nutritional needs as well as the medical needs.
Further, we need to keep in mind that fresh grasses and some hays can contain fairly substantial amounts of NSC. When dealing with a horse that is suffering from a disorder that may be aggravated by high levels of NSC, it is vital to look at the forage portion of the ration as well as the concentrate to determine the best total diet for that horse.
Finally, it is essential to keep in mind that each horse is an individual with individual needs. When we start looking at individuals with special needs such as those with Cushing’s Syndrome, or obese horses, or laminitic horses, there is no cookie cutter approach to meeting the horse’s nutritional needs as well as the medical needs.
At Olsen's Grain, we have a large variety of feeds available to meet the needs of horses in many different situations. Our goal is to provide the best nutrition for your horse by supplying the best feeds necessary to support your horse’s health, performance, and longevity.
Friday, January 6, 2012
PROTECTING THE FLOCK
PASTY BUTT
Often chickens, and chicks in particular, will get pasty butt because of hardened loose droppings. It can be caused by any type of stress that upsets the digestive tract, like a change in temperature. In the winter, the loose droppings will dry quickly and very hard because of heat lamps. It forms a harmful clump and prevents the animal from voiding any manure or waste products, so it's very serious. It can even lead to death.
To treat pasty butt, you need to remove the hardened droppings. If you have to, use a little bit of warm water and soap to try to remove the clump. Then, dry the chicken and make sure it gets back under a heat lamp to dry off and stay warm. You may have to repeat this for two to three days until the chicken's intestinal tract normalizes and they resume producing normal stools. Just as if you visited a foreign country and came down with intestinal problems, it usually takes two or three days to overcome intestinal troubles in chickens as well.
CANNIBALISM OR FEATHER PICKING
Another issue is cannibalism or feather picking, and it can start at a very young age, even with baby chicks. Sometimes, you'll have a smaller bird that maybe hasn't had the chance to drink or eat and is growing slower than the other birds. These birds can be bullies, and they can start picking on the young bird. It could be caused by overcrowding, overheating, different age birds, boredom, long daylight hours, very bright lights, poor nutrition, and it also occurs again right around 16 to 18 weeks when the chickens reach sexual maturity, since they have a little bit more aggression during that time.
There are a number of ways you can eliminate this behavior.
Give the birds more space. If you have one bird that is getting picked on, isolate it for a couple days. Provide it its own feeder and water. Keep it away until it grows up a little it bigger and closer to the same size as the other birds. Then reintroduce it and it should do fine.
Poor ventilation could cause birds to become agitated and pick, so make sure to allow fresh air into your coop.
If you have too much light or if it's really bright, the birds become agitated. Reduce the light intensity. As long as you can see fairly well within the area it should be fine, and the chickens should be more than happy.
You can also put small handfuls of hay out, and create some barriers within the environment with hay bales so the birds can escape each other for a little while.
Purina® SunFresh® Recipe Flock Block® feed is very effective in restoring natural pecking instincts. If you provide this type of a block the chickens may peck on the block rather than themselves. Flock Block® is similar to a scratch only in a block form. If you are going on vacation for a couple days, you can put one of these out in addition to supplying sufficient clean, fresh water. It feeds up to 25 birds for two or three days or maybe longer.
Better Animals - Electronic Newsletter - Family Flock - November 2011
Monday, January 2, 2012
Pet Food and Digestibility
We are surrounded by choices these days as we set out to buy food for our pets. There are many different foods in many different price ranges, all claiming to be just what your pet needs. How do we know what is really best, especially when we do not have quite all the information?
Digestibility of a product is a critical piece of information that is currently not quantitatively stated on pet food bags because, as of yet, there is no centralized or standardized official testing procedure that results in comparable data that can be put on pet food bags. Digestibility is an indicator of how thoroughly a feed is processed and utilized by the animal that eats it, and it is affected not only by the quality of the food but by the health status of the animal eating it. For instance, an animal riddled with intestinal parasites will digest far less of its food than will a parasite-free animal, regardless of the quality of the food. Therefore, extensive digestibility trials with large numbers of animals are required to truly estimate the digestibility of a given feed.
Most of the values shown on a feed tag or bag are derived by chemical analysis of the feedstuff. Chemical analysis, however, does not address the palatability, digestibility, or biological availability of nutrients in a food. Thus it is unreliable for determining whether a food will provide an animal with sufficient nutrients needed for growth, performance, or lactation. For instance, protein analysis is based on the measure of nitrogen in a feedstuff, since nitrogen is a key element in protein. However, merely measuring nitrogen is not indicative of protein quality (meaning amino acid composition), and nitrogen is a component of many other biological compounds, such as amine sugars. The analysis for fat does not indicate what kind of fat it is, and the fiber analysis likewise does not indicate the source or digestibility of the fiber, only that it is there. Technically, it is possible to make a "food" out of lawn fertilizer (nitrogen), motor oil (fat) and w ood chips (fiber) that will have the same protein, fat and fiber analysis as your favorite pet food! The tag would look great, but the feeding value would be horrible!
So how do you really make sure you are buying a quality product? You can fairly easily determine palatability yourself. If your pet doesn't like the food, it's not very palatable, at least not to your pet. Digestibility and biological availability can be trickier, but not impossible, to determine. The two are interrelated, as more digestible feeds are made from higher quality ingredients that will provide more nutrients that can be readily absorbed and utilized by your pet. Stool size and consistency are major indicators of feed quality: large, soft stools, perhaps with mucus present, are indicative of poor-quality, poorly utilized ingredients that are resulting in a lot of waste. That which goes all the way through the animal is not available for utilization! Poor growth rates in young animals or weight loss in lactating animals is a clear sign that the feed is not meeting their needs, regardless of the nutrient analysis. Dull coats can be a sign in adult animals that they are not getting what they need. And if your pet needs to eat more of a given food in order to maintain its weight, that's a sure sign that the food is not a very high quality feed.
Since higher quality feeds made from higher quality ingredients will generally cost more, price can sometimes be indicative of quality (certainly a high price tag can be put on a low quality feed, but seldom will a truly high-quality feed be offered at basement bargain prices). If you've always been a price tag shopper, consider this: If you pass up Feed A because it costs $23 for 40 pounds and buy Feed B at $20 for 40 pounds, but your pet must eat 25% more of Feed B in order to get the nutrients it needs, have you saved money? Let's see. If your dog needs 1 pound/day of Feed A, that is 40 servings at 57.5 cents per serving. Your dog will need to eat 1.25 pounds of Diet B to get the same amount of nutrients, meaning you get only 32 servings from the bag, at a cost of 62.5 cents/serving. Not such a great deal after all! Checking feeding directions to determine estimated consumption can be of some help, but beware – one cup of one food may not weigh the same as one cup of another food, so you may end up comparing apples and oranges when reading recommendations on bags. Weight is a better measure than volume when determining intake.
Reputation is another indicator of quality. Established pet food companies that conduct digestibility trials, as well as maintaining a customer service department to interact with consumers, are more likely to be putting out a quality product that they are happy to stand behind. If there isn't an 800-number on the bag, then you can probably assume the company isn't very interested in your comments. If they are not testing their feed but rather formulating based on calculated nutrient content (which is based on chemical analysis), then neither you nor they will really know how digestible it is until you feed it. PMI Nutrition conducts extensive digestibility trials on its pet food to ensure that you are getting the highest quality for your dollar.
Remember that nutrition is a complicated process involving not just the presence of nutrients but also their availability and digestibility and therefore their usefulness to the animal. Long-term subclinical nutritional deficiencies or imbalances due to lower quality foods can take a toll on the longevity and eventual quality of life of pets who may appear to be healthy on the outside. Don't take shortcuts with your pet's nutrition!
They give us so much—aren't they worth the very best?
Monday, December 26, 2011
Pit Bull Terriers: A Misunderstood Breed
Amy Rogier Klenke got Alabama, a Pit, Boxer and Heeler mix, 13 years ago from the Humane Society while she was in college. Since then, she's only had Pit Bulls and Pit mixes and wouldn't think of owning any other type of dog.
"It is all about how you treat and train your dog," Amy said. "American Pit Bull Terriers and Pit bull type dogs are misunderstood, and they get a bad rap. Any animal can be made mean. I have found that Pit Bulls are very loyal and eager to please their human companions, which helps out with their training. They are extremely affectionate and love to cuddle. They are great with kids, but supervision is key, as with any dog or animal."
Unlike the aggressive stereotype that Pits are often given, Alabama is quiet and reserved.
"In a thunderstorm you will find her hiding under the bed," Amy said.
Amy's other four dogs, Cheyenne, Mugsy, Neva and J.D., like Alabama were all adopted or rescued.
"I have grown up with a respect for animals, and it's alarming to me the amount of people that abuse animals and don't care for them," Amy said.
The Klenke's adopted Cheyenne, a 7-year-old Pitt Bull Boxer mix, to be a companion for one of their other dogs.
"She is the queen bee and keeps all the other 'kids' in line," Amy said. "She loves it when we come home and always meets us at the door with a smile on her face. Although we haven't had her certified, we are learning that more and more Pit Bulls are serving as therapy dogs and are considering having her go through the training and certification."
Before switching to a new medication, Amy's husband Aaron occasionally had absence seizures, a type of seizure that looks like a staring spell or like Aaron was daydreaming, when he was overly tired or stressed out.
"Cheyenne could sense the seizures coming and would go to him, sit with him throughout the duration of the seizure and just let him pet her," Amy said. "It was like she was protecting him and making sure he was OK."
Mugsy is an American Pit Bull Terrier that the Rogiers adopted four years ago as a puppy, and he still thinks he is the baby of the family despite topping the scale at 90 lbs.
"He often thinks he is actually a small dog and wants to sit in your lap," Amy said. "He acts tough, but he is big push over."
Neva is Amy's 3-year-old and an American Pit Bull Terrier.
"We call her wiggle butt," Amy said. "She is always happy and can't hide it. She wiggles her entire butt as she wags her tail. She is by far the happiest creature I have ever met, two or four legged."
The Klenke's most recent family addition is J.D., a 2-year-old Pit, Shepherd and Chow mix.
"We started out fostering J.D. for our favorite rescue group Hope Rescues. We were just going to foster him until he found a permanent home," Amy said. "Well, he found one, at our house. He is a little timid sometimes, but he fits in perfectly to our pack."
Hope Rescues, located in Alton, Illinois, is a non-profit organization that started out as a rescue for pets affected by the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. It has a no-kill policy and works to rehabilitate physically and mentally abused animals, promote spaying and neutering of pets and educate people on how to treat animals.
"Kim and Jackie, who run Hope Rescues, are very passionate about the animals they rescue, and they give the animals a good quality life while they are waiting for their forever home," Amy said. "All of their animals are either cared for in foster homes or in a boarding/daycare type facility rather than being in a shelter like environment, and these ladies follow up and check on the animals that they adopt out."
Dealing with the stigmas associated with Pit Bulls has been one of Amy's biggest surprises, but she has been able to show Pit Bulls in a different light.
"People are stunned that we have five of them," Amy said. "When Mugsy was a puppy, he came to work with me every day. We wanted to be sure that he was socialized and used to a lot of different people. People loved him, and they were often shocked with they found out he was an American Pit Bull Terrier."
Amy feeds her dogs Exclusive® and Infinia® pet foods, and she's not only a PMI Nutrition customer, but also a PMI Nutrition dealer, working as the assistant manager at Hamel Co-op in Hamel, Illinois.
Hamel Co-op was established in 1920 by a group of area farmers that purchased the local grain elevator, and it became a Purina Mills dealer in 1944. Today, the Co-op is still owned by stockholders and ran by a board of directors, but unlike other cooperatives, is open to the public, doing business with both members and non-members. Working at Hamel Co-op since 2003, Amy has become an expert in feed and seed. She also maintains the Co-op's website, writes their newsletters and hosts an Ag Trivia contest on a local radio station.
"As a pet owner, I am not comfortable selling someone a feed that I would not feed my own pets," Amy said. "I love the Exclusive® and Infinia® products because they are made with natural, wholesome ingredients. They are very palatable and my dogs dig into every feeding. I love knowing that my dogs are getting a nutritious meal without the fillers that are often used in other pet foods. Also, because my dogs' bodies utilize the food better, there is less waste to pick up."
Not having any kids, Amy admits that she and Aaron treat their dogs like their children and spoil them rotten.
"Our Pits are part of our family. They love to have human contact and interaction. They love to go jogging with you just as much as they love to lie next to you on the couch and watch your favorite TV show. If you don't want to spend time with your pets, this is not the type of dog for you," Amy said. "We love coming home to them no matter how our day was, good or bad. They meet you at the door with a smile on their face and a wet slobbery kiss."
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Hunting with a good dog is one of the great joys of being an outdoorsman. An accomplished hunting dog is truly a work of art on paws. But all that activity—the tracking, the running, the swimming in icy water—puts great demands on your dog's body.
Your hard-working hunting dog has much higher energy needs than a sedentary house dog, and the cold frosty mornings of hunting season can add to his energy needs by requiring him to expend more energy just to stay warm. Add a long swim in an icy pond, and the energy burned just by being excited, and your dog will rack up some tremendous fuel requirements. Therefore, you need to feed him accordingly to keep his strength and energy at a high-performing level.
Research has shown that, similar to people, dogs performing long-term endurance (aerobic – meaning "with oxygen") exercise benefit greatly from a diet that is considerably higher in fat. The increased dietary fat serves as fuel for moderate, consistent activity, helping dogs perform longer and better. This does not mean that carbohydrates are not important. Carbohydrates are the primary fuel source for short, intense anaerobic (meaning "without oxygen") activity such as sprinting and swimming. This activity occurs too quickly for the slower metabolism of fat to be an adequate fuel source. Maintaining muscle levels of a carbohydrate called "glycogen" is very important in supporting a high level of anaerobic performance in active dogs. Therefore, the right combination and levels of dietary fat and carbohydrates working together is necessary to optimally provide for the dog's energy needs. Commercial feeds specifically designed with hunting dogs in mind a re your best bet for providing the right fuel combination for your hard-working hunting buddy.
Protein needs of hard-working dogs are generally greater than those of their more sedentary counterparts. Traditional thought was that exercise only increased the need for energy, not protein. We now know that athletic activity results in production and maintenance of a greater mass of muscle. It also causes adaptive physiological changes that increase the need for and utilization of protein. Stressful exercise can result in "microdamage" in muscle tissue that is not apparent but must nevertheless be repaired. Exercise also results in recruitment and development of specialized cells that contribute to enhanced muscle size and strength, so the muscle can better resist the rigors of the stressful exercise. These processes require more dietary protein than that needed by the average sedentary house pet. And not just any protein will do! Despite today's holistic movement toward plant-based feeds for both people and animals, the reality is that the evolutionary development of dogs dictates that they simply perform better when fed proteins of animal origin. The amino acids (those little building blocks of protein) in animal proteins more correctly match the nutrient requirements of dogs than do those in plant proteins. For dogs with a digestive sensitivity to soy proteins, a feed with animal-based proteins will result in more efficient digestion. A commercial feed designed for hunting dogs and made from high-quality animal proteins and properly fortified with vitamins and minerals will make it easy for you to meet your dog's nutritional needs.
During the off-season, provide plenty of exercise to keep your dog in good shape for the hunting season. The work need not be as strenuous as that encountered during hunting season, but it should be consistent, and feed should be adjusted accordingly. A commercial feed designed for hunting dogs during the off-season will help to keep your dog lean and ready to get back to work when fall rolls around again. You should never just let your dog kick back and be a couch potato, gaining weight and losing muscle tone. Hunting dogs are athletes, and, like people, they need to get in shape gradually and then work enough to maintain a certain level of fitness. As hunting season again approaches, step up the exercise program and gradually switch back to a higher-powered feed so that your dog will be a lean, mean hunting machine on opening day. A dog that is not physically prepared for the rigorous exercise of the hunting field cannot do his best for you and may even st rain muscles or tendons while trying. Proper dietary and fitness support of your hard-working hunting buddy will help keep him lean and strong and performing at his best!
Source: Better Animals - Electronic Newsletter - Pet - November 2011
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Why Should I Vaccinate My Pet?
Just as in humans, VACCINATIONS given to your pet will PROTECT against many DEADLY DISEASES. Even if your pet does not leave the house or the yard, they can be exposed to these diseases through STRAY ANIMALS or free roaming pets in the neighborhood.
The COST of a vaccine is INSIGNIFICANT compared to the cost of treating these diseases,to say nothing of the risk of great SUFFERING and possible DEATH. Most vaccinations give protection against diseases caused by viruses. To date, there is no known cure for any viral disease, only treatments for the many secondary effects that these diseases cause.
Some diseases will ultimately result in the loss of life. Others may or may not lead to such a tragic result, depending on how well the body itself is able to fight off the infection and how effectively the secondary problems that result from the viral infection are treated medically. Sometimes, even if the victim survives the disease, permanent damage may result. For example, sometimes dogs that survive distemper will have seizures when they get older. Fortunately, this can be easily controlled with medication.
Also, by vaccinating your pet, just as your child that goes to day care and public school, you will help PREVENT the SPREAD of these diseases to OTHER ANIMALS. If we were as conscientious about vaccinating our pets as we are our children, then perhaps some of these diseases could be eliminated as have been polio and other diseases in humans.
How do Vaccines Work?
Vaccinations are based on the same principal that natural immunity to disease occurs. They contain actual viruses or bacteria, or portions of them, in a form that will not cause disease, but will stimulate the immune system to be able to destroy these disease causing agents before they can make the animal sick. When these agents get into the bloodstream they are called ANTIGENS because they will stimulate certain white blood cells to produce proteins called ANTIBODIES. These antibodies will then attach to the viruses or bacteria and aid other white blood cells in destroying them. Once these antibodies have been produced by the white blood cells they will remain in the bloodstream for a long period of time to provide immediate protection against any of the viruses or bacteria that they attack that enter the bloodstream. Over time, and this length of time will vary for each different virus, these antibodies will disappear from the bloodstream and eventually there will be none to offer protection. This is why it is important to revaccinate on a regular basis, to be sure that these disease fighting antibodies are present in sufficient numbers to keep disease from occurring. But there is also the ability of the white cells to "remember" the antigens that they have encountered before for a long time, and they will produce antibodies again when the antigen is encountered; the advantage of this is that these antibodies will be produced much more rapidly and in greater numbers than the first time the antigen was encountered. So, even if the antibodies in the bloodstream have dwindled, the immune system still has some ability to fight off an infection.
Vaccinating Your Puppy or Kitten
There are important things you need to know to understand why your puppy or kitten needs to be vaccinated, and why it is so important that they receive a series of these vaccinations.
To begin with, when the mother dog or cat has been properly vaccinated in the past, she will have ANTIBODIES to the diseases she was vaccinated against flowing in her bloodstream. When it comes times for her to deliver, these antibodies will go into the mammary glands, in the "first milk", which is called COLLOSTRUM. This collostrum is a bit different from milk, and it has a different color - sort of a golden, watery color. This is the "milk" that will be present in her breasts when the babies are born. Antibodies are very large molecules (proteins) and only during the first 24-48 hours of the baby's life are the intestines able to absorb them into the bloodstream. This is one reason it is so important for a newborn to start nursing right away. Once these antibodies are absorbed into the bloodstream of the infant, they will stay there for a number of weeks, to provide protection against these diseases. Over time, and this will vary from puppy to puppy or kitten to kitten, these antibodies will slowly disappear from the bloodstream and at some point during the first 4 months of life, the young one will no longer be protected. This vulnerability will occur anywhere from about 6 weeks to 4 months, but there is no way to predict in an individual at what time this will occur. During this time it is very important to begin a vaccination schedule. The vaccinations will cause the puppy or kitten to produce its own antibodies, and thus keep it protected. However, if there are still antibodies present from the mom then this will interfere with the vaccination, and the immune system will not be stimulated. So it is important to vaccinate every three or four weeks, to be sure that the immune system gets stimulated as soon as it can respond, so that the puppy or kitten is not at risk during any period of its youth (remember that any disease is much more dangerous for someone very young). Research has shown that by the age of 4 months, all puppies and kittens that can respond will have responded to a vaccination. So if you continue to have your puppy or kitten vaccinated up to the age of 4 months, or even longer, you can feel confident that it has been protected. Until this time, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you not allow your pet to go anywhere where it may contract a disease. Do not let kittens outdoors (for more reasons than catching diseases!), do not take your puppy to parks or other areas where other dogs are allowed to roam. When you go to the vet's office for vaccinations, keep them in a carrier if possible, do not let them loose on the yard of the clinic or the floor of the clinic. Do not let them come face to face with a sick animal. Once your puppy or kitten has finished its shots, then yearly boosters will keep the immune system "ready to go" to prevent your pet from getting these diseases.
What Vaccines Does My Dog Need?
The major diseases that dogs are vaccinated against are DISTEMPER, PARVO, LEPTOSPIROSIS, CANINE HEPATITIS, and KENNEL COUGH. Most of the time, distemper, parvo, leptospirosis, and hepatitis vaccines are combined into one injection, you may have heard of this vaccination referred to as the 6 in 1, or 7 in one shot. Kennel cough vaccine is given separately, either as an injection or with drops that are placed in the nose. Every dog should be vaccinated on a yearly basis with the combination vaccine to protect against distemper and parvo, and the others as well, and to help prevent the spread of these diseases. Kennel cough vaccine is sometimes given routinely by veterinarians, or sometimes the choice of this vaccination is left up to the pet owner. Kennel cough is very contagious through contact with dogs that are infected with it, but it is not a lifethreatening disease. It is important to have your dog vaccinated against this if he or she will be spending time boarding in a kennel, or going to the groomer's.
RABIES VACCINE of course is extremely important, and this vaccination is required by law, either every year or every three years, depending on the rabies laws of your state.
What Vaccines Should My Cat Get?
Major diseases that cats are vaccinated against include the UPPER RESPIRATORY VIRUSES and FELINE LEUKEMIA VIRUS. There is a vaccine for FELINE INFECTIOUS PERITONITIS but there is great controversy surrounding this vaccine, be sure to discuss this with your vet. Which vaccines your cat should receive will depend upon your situation and what your veterinarian feels is appropriate. There is a small risk of a cat developing a very bad tumor, called a FIBROSARCOMA, at the site of the vaccination. Because of this, there is a great deal of discussion going on among veterinarians and feline societies as to how often and under what circumstances a cat should be vaccinated.
The upper respiratory viruses are spread from cat to cat just as the cold virus is spread from human to human. There are 4 major upper respiratory viruses and most often there is one injection that will vaccinate against all 4. This vaccination will not completely prevent infection in every case, but it will help lessen the severity of the infection. Feline leukemia virus is spread most often through bite wounds from an infected cat, but sometimes it can be spread from an infected cat to an uninfected cat through close daily contact when they live together. A cat who stays strictly indoors and is never around any other cats is not likely to get exposed to these diseases. Any cat who spends any time outdoors should be regularly vaccinated for both upper respiratory diseases as well as leukemia, and should be tested for the leukemia virus prior to being given the vaccine. The risk of becoming ill from these viruses is much greater than the risk of developing an injection site tumor. Cats who live in multiple cat households should be vaccinated at least for the upper respiratory diseases. It would also be best to have each cat in such a situation tested for the leukemia virus, to be sure that this disease will not be spread to all the cats of the household. If any are found to be positive, then other noninfected cats in the household should be vaccinated regularly for feline leukemia. The vaccine is not 100% effective, but in most cases will provide protection. Measures should be taken to keep the infected cats separated from the uninfected cats as much as possible.
Of course, the RABIES VACCINE is extremely important, and is required by law. This vaccine is given every year, or every three years, depending on the rabies laws of your state.
Special Considerations
Vaccinations by the BREEDER:
Many BREEDERS will vaccinate their puppies or kittens themselves. They purchase vaccines in bulk and administer them themselves to save money. Sometimes these vaccines are fine, but many times, depending on the manufacturer, they are not good quality vaccines. Sometimes they are not handled properly, and thus will be ineffective, and sometimes very unreputable breeders will say that they have vaccinated when in fact they have not. A reputable breeder will be sure that they buy very good quality, effective vaccinations and they will give them as they are supposed to be given. Howver, in this situation, your safest course of action is to disregard anything the breeder tells you about vaccinations, and take the puppy or kitten right away to the vet to be vaccinated. It will not harm the puppy or kitten to receive an extra vaccine, but there is great risk in not receiving proper vaccines. If the breeder is able to provide you with proof that the puppy or kitten was vaccinated with a reliable vaccine, then you should show this information to your veterinarian, and let them make the decision as to whether or not the puppy or kitten should be vaccinated right away. There are also very good breeders who have all of the offspring vaccinated by a licensed veterinarian, and they will also provide you with a form to indicate such. You should still show this information to your veterinarian, so that they can verify that this has been done, and let you know when your pet should receive future vaccines.
ORPHANED puppy or kitten:
These babies may not have received any colostrum from their mother, therefore may have no protection whatsoever, and it is especially important to start their vaccinations as soon as possible. It is also especially important to see to it that they do not get exposed to disease, so extra stringent measures should be taken to protect them. You should call your veterinarian and describe your situation, let them tell you just exactly what you should do.
OLDER Puppies and Kittens:
If you have a puppy or a kitten that is older than 6 weeks, and never vaccinated, or you do not know whether or not it has received vaccinations, or you could not afford vaccinations when it was younger, what do you do? If the puppy or kitten is less than four months old, you do not have to double up or catch up on the vaccines it has not received. Or if you do not know if it has had vaccines in the past, it does not hurt to have it revaccinated. You just need to get the vaccinations that are appropriate for the pet's age. And you can ask your veterinarian about what is best. Even if the pet is an adult, and you do not know its history, you should have it vaccinated. Adults may not be quite as vulnerable to some diseases, but they are all at risk, if never vaccinated.
DURATION of PROTECTION from a Vaccine
There is much current research being done to determine just how long protection (this is referring to the length of time the antibodies stay in the blood after a vaccine - this is called a "titer") lasts from a vaccine. This research is being done in both human and veterinary medicine. There is evidence to show that protection from several vaccinations in cats and dogs lasts longer than a year, but the length of time will vary for each individual dog or cat, and it will depend on what the vaccine is protecting against. So why should you vaccinate your pet every year? Well, until all of this research leads to more specific information, you should do this to be sure your pet is protected. Also, and I think this is most important, with most veterinarians, when your pet goes in for a vaccine he or she will be given a physical exam. In fact, you can and should insist on this, if your vet does not do it routinely. This is so important because there are many diseases out there that can cause subtle changes in your pet that you may not be able to recognise. And many of these diseases or problems are quite serious, and must be caught as early as possible for treatment to be effective. They may not be so serious, but could be causing great discomfort to your pet. Since they can't talk, how are you to know?
What Are the Negative Side Effects of Vaccines?
VACCINATION REACTIONS:
Dogs and cats can have allergic reactions to vaccines. This does not occur very often, but can occur. Most often, within several hours of receiving the vaccination, they will develop hives, large bumps all over the body. This reaction will occur within several hours of receiving the vaccine. They may experience swelling in the face and neck. If this occurs, the pet needs to be seen by a veterinarian right away, but the reaction is easily treated with steroids, and should disappear by the next day. Rarely, and I stress rarely, they can develop an anaphylactic reaction, which is a severe, life-threatening allergic reaction. It is the same thing that will happen to a human, for example, you have heard of someone who is allergic to eggs or seafood, and they eat it, this will cause this sort of reaction. Signs of this reaction include vomiting, sometimes diarrhea or defecation, falling over or fainting, agitation, respiratory distress. If not treated medically, immediately, death will result. Allergic reactions occur only when reexposure occurs, and only if the immune system has responded in such a way as to make a human or animal allergic. This is a special response of the immune system that only occurs sometimes, in certain individuals, to certain substances. Such reactions should never happen with the first vaccine given, however on rare occasion a puppy may show a severe reaction to its first vaccine. It is not clearly understood what causes this, but it is thought that there may be some added ingredient in the vaccine that the puppy has been exposed to previously that causes this reaction. And most pets never develop an allergic reaction to any vaccine. But if you are concerned at all about your pet having a reaction you can handle this in a simple manner. You can take your pet to your veterinarian early in the morning, and leave it all day, to get vaccinated. Inform your vet of your concerns, ask him or her to vaccinate your pet very early in the day, and to watch it closely for any signs of reaction. They will be able to deal with such a reaction promptly and successfully should it occur. If your pet has had any reactions in the past, you should by all means inform your vet of this, and discuss with him or her whether or not your pet needs to be vaccinated in spite of the risk. There are medications that can be given prior to vaccination that will help prevent this allergic reaction and other ways of minimizing the risk to the allergic pet.
PERSISTENT SWELLING at the vaccination site:
Sometimes, at the location where the pet was vaccinated, a hard lump will form. This is just a local reaction to the ingredients in the vaccine and should disappear slowly, within a month or so. You should take your pet to the vet, should such a lump appear, to have them check it out, and make sure that is what is causing the lump. They should do this at no charge for you, if your pet was vaccinated there. As with any lump you should keep a very close eye on it, if it is growing, getting larger, or becoming irritated or abscessed, this is a cause for immediate concern, and requires immediate veterinary attention. In light of this, sometimes in CATS a certain type of tumor will form at the vaccination site, called a FIBROSARCOMA! These tumors are very nasty, they are very aggressive at their site of location, they invade the tissues and grow to be quite large. They will most often result in the loss of life of the cat, if not treated, and many times the treatment is unsuccessful. However, it has been shown that when surgery is performed to remove this tumor, if done correctly, with lots of tissue around the tumor removed, that sometimes the cat can be cured of this tumor. At least this can greatly extend the life of the cat. If not completely removed, the tumor will grow back. Many veterinarians these days will vaccinate a cat in the hind leg, in case the vaccine results in a tumor. This way, if a tumor develops, the leg can be amputated and the life of the cat will be saved in most cases. Cats that have only 3 legs actually do almost as well as cats with four, they do not seem to notice the difference, and they can get around quite well, so don't let this alarm you! The surgery is not nearly as painful as it would be for you or I, and the cat will be up and around as if nothing happened within a day to several days.
FEVER, LETHARGY, OR PAIN after vaccination:
Very frequently a YOUNG PUPPY, especially if it is small and/or this is its first vaccines, will appear to be sleepy, lethargic, and painful (for example, it may cry when you pick it up or pet it) for about 24 hours after receiving the vaccine. This is nothing to worry about, the puppy should be back to normal the next day. DO NOT give your puppy any ASPIRIN, TYLENOL, IBUPROFEN, or any other over the counter pain reliever/fever reducers. Aspirin is sometimes fairly safe to give a dog, but this must be only with the approval and direction of your veterinarian. Tylenol (acetominophen) and ibuprofen and related drugs should never be given under any circumstance. Usually this does not reccur with subsequent vaccines. However, if you have any concerns at all about this, just give your vet a call. They should be able to allay your fears. And if the puppy is not 100% the next morning, be sure to call your vet and let them know, something else may be wrong.
CATS will sometimes do the same thing, even when they are adults, especially if they have received multiple vaccines in one visit. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES GIVE YOUR CAT ASPIRIN, TYLENOL (acetominophen), IBUPROFEN, or any other over the counter pain reliever/fever reducers. These can easily kill your cat. Vaccine related fever and pain seem to occur more frequently when the cat is vaccinated in the leg. In this case, it might be a good idea to take the cat back to the veterinarian for a check up, he or she may want to prescribe antibiotics if there is a fever, just to be on the safe side. If this occurs, the next time you have your cat vaccinated, you can split the vaccines up, that is, you can have the cat vaccinated with each vaccine at separate times, a week apart is a reasonable schedule.
REMEMBER:
The vast majority of pets do not experience any significant problems with routine vaccinations. The protection that these vaccines give your pet from deadly diseases far outweighs the risks they may encounter in receiving them.
source: http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/rescue/whyvaccinate.html
The COST of a vaccine is INSIGNIFICANT compared to the cost of treating these diseases,to say nothing of the risk of great SUFFERING and possible DEATH. Most vaccinations give protection against diseases caused by viruses. To date, there is no known cure for any viral disease, only treatments for the many secondary effects that these diseases cause.
Some diseases will ultimately result in the loss of life. Others may or may not lead to such a tragic result, depending on how well the body itself is able to fight off the infection and how effectively the secondary problems that result from the viral infection are treated medically. Sometimes, even if the victim survives the disease, permanent damage may result. For example, sometimes dogs that survive distemper will have seizures when they get older. Fortunately, this can be easily controlled with medication.
Also, by vaccinating your pet, just as your child that goes to day care and public school, you will help PREVENT the SPREAD of these diseases to OTHER ANIMALS. If we were as conscientious about vaccinating our pets as we are our children, then perhaps some of these diseases could be eliminated as have been polio and other diseases in humans.
How do Vaccines Work?
Vaccinations are based on the same principal that natural immunity to disease occurs. They contain actual viruses or bacteria, or portions of them, in a form that will not cause disease, but will stimulate the immune system to be able to destroy these disease causing agents before they can make the animal sick. When these agents get into the bloodstream they are called ANTIGENS because they will stimulate certain white blood cells to produce proteins called ANTIBODIES. These antibodies will then attach to the viruses or bacteria and aid other white blood cells in destroying them. Once these antibodies have been produced by the white blood cells they will remain in the bloodstream for a long period of time to provide immediate protection against any of the viruses or bacteria that they attack that enter the bloodstream. Over time, and this length of time will vary for each different virus, these antibodies will disappear from the bloodstream and eventually there will be none to offer protection. This is why it is important to revaccinate on a regular basis, to be sure that these disease fighting antibodies are present in sufficient numbers to keep disease from occurring. But there is also the ability of the white cells to "remember" the antigens that they have encountered before for a long time, and they will produce antibodies again when the antigen is encountered; the advantage of this is that these antibodies will be produced much more rapidly and in greater numbers than the first time the antigen was encountered. So, even if the antibodies in the bloodstream have dwindled, the immune system still has some ability to fight off an infection.
Vaccinating Your Puppy or Kitten
There are important things you need to know to understand why your puppy or kitten needs to be vaccinated, and why it is so important that they receive a series of these vaccinations.
To begin with, when the mother dog or cat has been properly vaccinated in the past, she will have ANTIBODIES to the diseases she was vaccinated against flowing in her bloodstream. When it comes times for her to deliver, these antibodies will go into the mammary glands, in the "first milk", which is called COLLOSTRUM. This collostrum is a bit different from milk, and it has a different color - sort of a golden, watery color. This is the "milk" that will be present in her breasts when the babies are born. Antibodies are very large molecules (proteins) and only during the first 24-48 hours of the baby's life are the intestines able to absorb them into the bloodstream. This is one reason it is so important for a newborn to start nursing right away. Once these antibodies are absorbed into the bloodstream of the infant, they will stay there for a number of weeks, to provide protection against these diseases. Over time, and this will vary from puppy to puppy or kitten to kitten, these antibodies will slowly disappear from the bloodstream and at some point during the first 4 months of life, the young one will no longer be protected. This vulnerability will occur anywhere from about 6 weeks to 4 months, but there is no way to predict in an individual at what time this will occur. During this time it is very important to begin a vaccination schedule. The vaccinations will cause the puppy or kitten to produce its own antibodies, and thus keep it protected. However, if there are still antibodies present from the mom then this will interfere with the vaccination, and the immune system will not be stimulated. So it is important to vaccinate every three or four weeks, to be sure that the immune system gets stimulated as soon as it can respond, so that the puppy or kitten is not at risk during any period of its youth (remember that any disease is much more dangerous for someone very young). Research has shown that by the age of 4 months, all puppies and kittens that can respond will have responded to a vaccination. So if you continue to have your puppy or kitten vaccinated up to the age of 4 months, or even longer, you can feel confident that it has been protected. Until this time, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you not allow your pet to go anywhere where it may contract a disease. Do not let kittens outdoors (for more reasons than catching diseases!), do not take your puppy to parks or other areas where other dogs are allowed to roam. When you go to the vet's office for vaccinations, keep them in a carrier if possible, do not let them loose on the yard of the clinic or the floor of the clinic. Do not let them come face to face with a sick animal. Once your puppy or kitten has finished its shots, then yearly boosters will keep the immune system "ready to go" to prevent your pet from getting these diseases.
What Vaccines Does My Dog Need?
The major diseases that dogs are vaccinated against are DISTEMPER, PARVO, LEPTOSPIROSIS, CANINE HEPATITIS, and KENNEL COUGH. Most of the time, distemper, parvo, leptospirosis, and hepatitis vaccines are combined into one injection, you may have heard of this vaccination referred to as the 6 in 1, or 7 in one shot. Kennel cough vaccine is given separately, either as an injection or with drops that are placed in the nose. Every dog should be vaccinated on a yearly basis with the combination vaccine to protect against distemper and parvo, and the others as well, and to help prevent the spread of these diseases. Kennel cough vaccine is sometimes given routinely by veterinarians, or sometimes the choice of this vaccination is left up to the pet owner. Kennel cough is very contagious through contact with dogs that are infected with it, but it is not a lifethreatening disease. It is important to have your dog vaccinated against this if he or she will be spending time boarding in a kennel, or going to the groomer's.
RABIES VACCINE of course is extremely important, and this vaccination is required by law, either every year or every three years, depending on the rabies laws of your state.
What Vaccines Should My Cat Get?
Major diseases that cats are vaccinated against include the UPPER RESPIRATORY VIRUSES and FELINE LEUKEMIA VIRUS. There is a vaccine for FELINE INFECTIOUS PERITONITIS but there is great controversy surrounding this vaccine, be sure to discuss this with your vet. Which vaccines your cat should receive will depend upon your situation and what your veterinarian feels is appropriate. There is a small risk of a cat developing a very bad tumor, called a FIBROSARCOMA, at the site of the vaccination. Because of this, there is a great deal of discussion going on among veterinarians and feline societies as to how often and under what circumstances a cat should be vaccinated.
The upper respiratory viruses are spread from cat to cat just as the cold virus is spread from human to human. There are 4 major upper respiratory viruses and most often there is one injection that will vaccinate against all 4. This vaccination will not completely prevent infection in every case, but it will help lessen the severity of the infection. Feline leukemia virus is spread most often through bite wounds from an infected cat, but sometimes it can be spread from an infected cat to an uninfected cat through close daily contact when they live together. A cat who stays strictly indoors and is never around any other cats is not likely to get exposed to these diseases. Any cat who spends any time outdoors should be regularly vaccinated for both upper respiratory diseases as well as leukemia, and should be tested for the leukemia virus prior to being given the vaccine. The risk of becoming ill from these viruses is much greater than the risk of developing an injection site tumor. Cats who live in multiple cat households should be vaccinated at least for the upper respiratory diseases. It would also be best to have each cat in such a situation tested for the leukemia virus, to be sure that this disease will not be spread to all the cats of the household. If any are found to be positive, then other noninfected cats in the household should be vaccinated regularly for feline leukemia. The vaccine is not 100% effective, but in most cases will provide protection. Measures should be taken to keep the infected cats separated from the uninfected cats as much as possible.
Of course, the RABIES VACCINE is extremely important, and is required by law. This vaccine is given every year, or every three years, depending on the rabies laws of your state.
Special Considerations
Vaccinations by the BREEDER:
Many BREEDERS will vaccinate their puppies or kittens themselves. They purchase vaccines in bulk and administer them themselves to save money. Sometimes these vaccines are fine, but many times, depending on the manufacturer, they are not good quality vaccines. Sometimes they are not handled properly, and thus will be ineffective, and sometimes very unreputable breeders will say that they have vaccinated when in fact they have not. A reputable breeder will be sure that they buy very good quality, effective vaccinations and they will give them as they are supposed to be given. Howver, in this situation, your safest course of action is to disregard anything the breeder tells you about vaccinations, and take the puppy or kitten right away to the vet to be vaccinated. It will not harm the puppy or kitten to receive an extra vaccine, but there is great risk in not receiving proper vaccines. If the breeder is able to provide you with proof that the puppy or kitten was vaccinated with a reliable vaccine, then you should show this information to your veterinarian, and let them make the decision as to whether or not the puppy or kitten should be vaccinated right away. There are also very good breeders who have all of the offspring vaccinated by a licensed veterinarian, and they will also provide you with a form to indicate such. You should still show this information to your veterinarian, so that they can verify that this has been done, and let you know when your pet should receive future vaccines.
ORPHANED puppy or kitten:
These babies may not have received any colostrum from their mother, therefore may have no protection whatsoever, and it is especially important to start their vaccinations as soon as possible. It is also especially important to see to it that they do not get exposed to disease, so extra stringent measures should be taken to protect them. You should call your veterinarian and describe your situation, let them tell you just exactly what you should do.
OLDER Puppies and Kittens:
If you have a puppy or a kitten that is older than 6 weeks, and never vaccinated, or you do not know whether or not it has received vaccinations, or you could not afford vaccinations when it was younger, what do you do? If the puppy or kitten is less than four months old, you do not have to double up or catch up on the vaccines it has not received. Or if you do not know if it has had vaccines in the past, it does not hurt to have it revaccinated. You just need to get the vaccinations that are appropriate for the pet's age. And you can ask your veterinarian about what is best. Even if the pet is an adult, and you do not know its history, you should have it vaccinated. Adults may not be quite as vulnerable to some diseases, but they are all at risk, if never vaccinated.
DURATION of PROTECTION from a Vaccine
There is much current research being done to determine just how long protection (this is referring to the length of time the antibodies stay in the blood after a vaccine - this is called a "titer") lasts from a vaccine. This research is being done in both human and veterinary medicine. There is evidence to show that protection from several vaccinations in cats and dogs lasts longer than a year, but the length of time will vary for each individual dog or cat, and it will depend on what the vaccine is protecting against. So why should you vaccinate your pet every year? Well, until all of this research leads to more specific information, you should do this to be sure your pet is protected. Also, and I think this is most important, with most veterinarians, when your pet goes in for a vaccine he or she will be given a physical exam. In fact, you can and should insist on this, if your vet does not do it routinely. This is so important because there are many diseases out there that can cause subtle changes in your pet that you may not be able to recognise. And many of these diseases or problems are quite serious, and must be caught as early as possible for treatment to be effective. They may not be so serious, but could be causing great discomfort to your pet. Since they can't talk, how are you to know?
What Are the Negative Side Effects of Vaccines?
VACCINATION REACTIONS:
Dogs and cats can have allergic reactions to vaccines. This does not occur very often, but can occur. Most often, within several hours of receiving the vaccination, they will develop hives, large bumps all over the body. This reaction will occur within several hours of receiving the vaccine. They may experience swelling in the face and neck. If this occurs, the pet needs to be seen by a veterinarian right away, but the reaction is easily treated with steroids, and should disappear by the next day. Rarely, and I stress rarely, they can develop an anaphylactic reaction, which is a severe, life-threatening allergic reaction. It is the same thing that will happen to a human, for example, you have heard of someone who is allergic to eggs or seafood, and they eat it, this will cause this sort of reaction. Signs of this reaction include vomiting, sometimes diarrhea or defecation, falling over or fainting, agitation, respiratory distress. If not treated medically, immediately, death will result. Allergic reactions occur only when reexposure occurs, and only if the immune system has responded in such a way as to make a human or animal allergic. This is a special response of the immune system that only occurs sometimes, in certain individuals, to certain substances. Such reactions should never happen with the first vaccine given, however on rare occasion a puppy may show a severe reaction to its first vaccine. It is not clearly understood what causes this, but it is thought that there may be some added ingredient in the vaccine that the puppy has been exposed to previously that causes this reaction. And most pets never develop an allergic reaction to any vaccine. But if you are concerned at all about your pet having a reaction you can handle this in a simple manner. You can take your pet to your veterinarian early in the morning, and leave it all day, to get vaccinated. Inform your vet of your concerns, ask him or her to vaccinate your pet very early in the day, and to watch it closely for any signs of reaction. They will be able to deal with such a reaction promptly and successfully should it occur. If your pet has had any reactions in the past, you should by all means inform your vet of this, and discuss with him or her whether or not your pet needs to be vaccinated in spite of the risk. There are medications that can be given prior to vaccination that will help prevent this allergic reaction and other ways of minimizing the risk to the allergic pet.
PERSISTENT SWELLING at the vaccination site:
Sometimes, at the location where the pet was vaccinated, a hard lump will form. This is just a local reaction to the ingredients in the vaccine and should disappear slowly, within a month or so. You should take your pet to the vet, should such a lump appear, to have them check it out, and make sure that is what is causing the lump. They should do this at no charge for you, if your pet was vaccinated there. As with any lump you should keep a very close eye on it, if it is growing, getting larger, or becoming irritated or abscessed, this is a cause for immediate concern, and requires immediate veterinary attention. In light of this, sometimes in CATS a certain type of tumor will form at the vaccination site, called a FIBROSARCOMA! These tumors are very nasty, they are very aggressive at their site of location, they invade the tissues and grow to be quite large. They will most often result in the loss of life of the cat, if not treated, and many times the treatment is unsuccessful. However, it has been shown that when surgery is performed to remove this tumor, if done correctly, with lots of tissue around the tumor removed, that sometimes the cat can be cured of this tumor. At least this can greatly extend the life of the cat. If not completely removed, the tumor will grow back. Many veterinarians these days will vaccinate a cat in the hind leg, in case the vaccine results in a tumor. This way, if a tumor develops, the leg can be amputated and the life of the cat will be saved in most cases. Cats that have only 3 legs actually do almost as well as cats with four, they do not seem to notice the difference, and they can get around quite well, so don't let this alarm you! The surgery is not nearly as painful as it would be for you or I, and the cat will be up and around as if nothing happened within a day to several days.
FEVER, LETHARGY, OR PAIN after vaccination:
Very frequently a YOUNG PUPPY, especially if it is small and/or this is its first vaccines, will appear to be sleepy, lethargic, and painful (for example, it may cry when you pick it up or pet it) for about 24 hours after receiving the vaccine. This is nothing to worry about, the puppy should be back to normal the next day. DO NOT give your puppy any ASPIRIN, TYLENOL, IBUPROFEN, or any other over the counter pain reliever/fever reducers. Aspirin is sometimes fairly safe to give a dog, but this must be only with the approval and direction of your veterinarian. Tylenol (acetominophen) and ibuprofen and related drugs should never be given under any circumstance. Usually this does not reccur with subsequent vaccines. However, if you have any concerns at all about this, just give your vet a call. They should be able to allay your fears. And if the puppy is not 100% the next morning, be sure to call your vet and let them know, something else may be wrong.
CATS will sometimes do the same thing, even when they are adults, especially if they have received multiple vaccines in one visit. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES GIVE YOUR CAT ASPIRIN, TYLENOL (acetominophen), IBUPROFEN, or any other over the counter pain reliever/fever reducers. These can easily kill your cat. Vaccine related fever and pain seem to occur more frequently when the cat is vaccinated in the leg. In this case, it might be a good idea to take the cat back to the veterinarian for a check up, he or she may want to prescribe antibiotics if there is a fever, just to be on the safe side. If this occurs, the next time you have your cat vaccinated, you can split the vaccines up, that is, you can have the cat vaccinated with each vaccine at separate times, a week apart is a reasonable schedule.
REMEMBER:
The vast majority of pets do not experience any significant problems with routine vaccinations. The protection that these vaccines give your pet from deadly diseases far outweighs the risks they may encounter in receiving them.
source: http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/rescue/whyvaccinate.html
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